Reportage della fashion reporter Suzi Menkes per il famoso giornale americano New York Times sui più importanti sarti napoletani: da Rubinacci a Kiton e Tofani
“Napoli, Italia. In un locale interrato lungo una strada in cui moto e clacson soffocano anche le campane della chiesa, Davide Tofani lavora a una tipica giacca napoletana. E spiega che fare un abito “è come plasmare la seconda pelle del cliente”. Suzi Menkes, fashion reporter del New York Times, consacra la sartoria partenopea in un reportage pubblicato sulle pagine dell’autorevole testata.
Nell’articolo, Napoli è “un paradiso del lavoro artigianale”. La giornalista si lascia incantare dagli atelier-bottega in cui “non ci sono computer a vista poiché occorrono mani sapienti più che high tech”. Passa da Tofani a Rubinacci, marchi storici che dal cuore di Napoli hanno conquistato il mondo e imposto i canoni dell’eleganza.
Non mancano affreschi della vita cittadina: “Molti uomini che vedi in giro per strada con amici o seduti su panchine, indossano giacche eleganti in tweed o lino leggero, di certo confezionate su misura. I sarti napoletani sembrano essere più capaci di muoversi nel ventunesimo secolo rispetto alla stessa città caotica. Come le acque della baia che salgono e scendono lungo la costa, gli artigiani hanno avuto anni buoni e cattivi. Ma oggi l’abito su misura è tornato e sta bene: ha vinto la sfida contro il made in fabbrica”
Rubinacci “ha un negozio in via Chiaia, nello storico Palazzo Cellamare. Mariano Rubinacci si presenta come un sarto vecchia scuola in una giacca impeccabile ed è fiero del fatto che più di 20 dei suoi 35 sarti abbiano meno di 40 anni. Il marchio è conosciuto in tutto il mondo e l’azienda conserva la documentazione dei suoi clienti: in un registro del 1934 si possono sfogliare gli ordini del re Umberto II o del Conte Leonetti mentre gli aristocratici di oggi sono oligarchi russi o reali malesi”.
La casa Kiton di Arzano, invece, “ha 45 negozi in Europa , negli Stati Uniti, nel Medio Oriente e in Asia – scrive la Menkes – Il team di Kiton è costantemente in movimento, per volare entro 24 ore da un cliente all’altro in qualsiasi parte del mondo. E ora progetta l’apertura di una nuova sede a Milano che sarà avamposto per i clienti internazionali: si potranno provare abiti su misura, acquistare accessori e si potrà cenare in un ristorante con cibo fresco giunto da Napoli”.
In ogni caso, “non devi essere un miliardario per ordinare un vestito Kiton (a meno che non sia in vigogna bianco) – continua la Menkes – ma sono soprattutto milionari, alcuni di Silicon Valley in California, ad acquistare abiti su misura a un costo medio di 7 mila euro, accessori esclusi. Occorrono 26 ore per fare una giacca, cinque ore per una camicia. Quando Antonio De Matteis, amministratore delegato della società, è arrivato in azienda nel 1986, le vendite annuali erano pari a circa 4 milioni. Nel 2010 le vendite hanno superato i 60 milioni e l’anno scorso hanno raggiunto i 105 milioni” .
L’ultima parola sulla filosofia della sartoria napoletana spetta però nell’articolo a Tofani: “La sartoria è un’arte e non un lavoro – dice – Mio padre mi ha sempre detto che l’importante non è fare una grande azienda ma essere un grande sarto in un piccolo negozio. Non penso a come fare soldi, sono un artista”
Fonte napoli.repubblica.it
Articolo di Fabiana Imperatore
© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA
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