Torre del Greco. «Ci sono un napoletano, un iracheno e un turco». Non è l’incipit di una storiella da bar ma l’inizio della favola di Antonio Riccio, 28 anni di Torre del Greco fondatore di Sartoria Napoletana Luxury, la prima sartoria su misura made in Italy ad aver aperto una boutique in Iraq. Da Torre del Greco a Erbil, cuore del Kurdistan iracheno, 3.500 chilometri di distanza: per il giovane imprenditore è il sogno di una vita. «Sapevo fin da piccolo che questo antico mestiere sarebbe stato il mio futuro, ci ho creduto».
L’avventura parte nel 2010 da una piccola bottega a Torre del Greco: «È stata la mia palestra, ho cominciato con camicie e cravatte, poi sono arrivati abiti, giacche e pantaloni: tutto cucito a mano, anche le impunture, ogni dettaglio è frutto del lavoro dell’uomo». Due anni dopo la svolta con l’apertura di un negozio a Milano e il lancio di una capsule collection: «Una scommessa vinta – ricorda Antonio Riccio -. Lì ho conosciuto i miei futuri soci arabi». Farhang Arab Mamal, 28 anni, businessman curdo-iraqueno e Murat Demirel, 27 anni, fashion designer di Van, Turchia: i tre giovani fondano Sartoria Napoletana Luxury e aprono un negozio nell’hotel Rotana di Erbil. «Abbiamo realizzato abiti per gli sceicchi arabi e vestito i principi della famiglia reale. All’inizio, però, è stata dura – confessa Antonio -. Ho una bimba di un anno e quando parto penso sempre a lei». Lasciare Torre del Greco ogni mese per andare a Erbil «vuol dire rischiare la vita tra attentati a Bagdad, venti di guerra dal confine turco e le minacce dell’Isis. Ma la passione – racconta fiero – è più forte della paura».
Grazie al consolato italiano – che ad ogni viaggio di Antonio segnala alla Farnesina la sua posizione – due anni dopo l’azienda raddoppia: il gruppo debutta in Turchia con un atelier a Istanbul in collaborazione col designer Enis Inci. Subito dopo Sartoria Napoletana Luxury lascia l’ambiente ovattato dell’hotel Rotana e apre su strada: 180 metri di showroom nel Vital Village, il distretto dello shopping di Erbill. Ieri sera l’inaugurazione: «Mi sono commosso: sono orgoglioso della mia azienda e di ogni singolo abito che produco». Il progetto è ambizioso: «Far innamorare dello stile napoletano un popolo lontano anni luce dai nostri costumi».
E il giovane façonista ci riesce, spuntandola sui musulmani: l’insegna del negozio è in italiano, le etichette delle giacche in dialetto stretto, la voce da scugnizzo di Pino Daniele accoglie i clienti islamici e le corna rosse, il più classico amuleto del folklore vesuviano, diventano il logo del brand. «Ormai parlo l’arabo ma mantengo la tradizione – dice orgoglioso -. Produciamo in una fabbrica del vesuviano, ogni pezzo è cucito a mano e abbiamo arredato lo showroom alla maniera di Napoli».
Tra un divano Chesterfield e il grande tavolo da lavoro dove i sarti tagliano le stoffe, ci sono il ritratto di Totò, il quadretto del Vesuvio e quello del golfo di Marechiaro: «Siamo innamorati dell’Italia e appena possiamo veniamo a Napoli – dicono Murat Demirel e Farhang Arab Mamal -. Vorremmo aprire una scuola per sarti». La sfida al Medio Oriente e ai ricchissimi mercati arabi «è appena lanciata, ora puntiamo agli Emirati, a Dubai e a Doha per portare la maestria napoletana dove non è mai arrivata prima». Sempre se «inshallah, sempre se Dio vuole».
Sorgente: Sarto napoletano apre bottega in Iraq e incanta gli sceicchi | Il Mattino
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