Nel 1798 aprì a Parigi, un locale destinato a divenire famoso, il Café Napolitaine. Si trovava in Boulevard des Italiens n.22. Ad aprirlo fu un italiano, un certo Velloni, che aveva lavorato a Napoli e Roma per poi trsferirsi in Francia, aprendo diversi caffé a Parigi. Velloni non ebbe grande successo negli affari ed il caffé fu rilevato nel 1803 da un suo allievo,il napoletano Alessandro Tortoni, che lo ristrutturò con un’ampia terrazza, ottenendo in breve un grande successo. Il suo locale, frequentato anche da Napoleone, divenne in pochi anni il più rinomato della città.Si deve a lui l’invenzione della “tranche napolitaine” o detta anche comunemente ” bomba gelato”, proprio dal nome del locale: un gelato a più strati (in genere tre) tagliato a fette.
Tortoni serviva anche il biscotto gelato, un’altra preparazione destinata a divenire un classico dei giorni nostri.Il gelato biscotto ebbe nel tempo diverse varianti e modi da servire, trovando poi nel “Biscuit Tortoni” tutta l’originalita’ del maestro,gelato di crema alla vaniglia,con granella di mandorle e canditi,riportato ancora oggi nei migliori ricettari gastronomici.
Tortoni si ritirò dagli affari nel 1825. Il caffé chiuse i battenti nel 1893, ma nel corso della sua storia vide passare affezionati clienti come Gioacchino Rossini, Alexander Dumas, Honoré de Balzac, Théophile Gautier, Anthony Trollope, Talleyrand, Alfred de Musset, Jules Janin, Bismarck, Édouard Manet…Il Café è citato in diversi romanzi del periodo. Per esempio nel Conte di Montecristo di Dumas.Caso particolare fu di un francese che aprì poi a Buenos Aires , in Avenida de Majo 825-29, un caffé in tipico stile belle époque chiamato Café Tortoni. Eravamo nel 1858 e il locale era destinato a divenire un vero e proprio monumento nazionale: ai suoi tavolini in rovere e marmo sedettero Garcìa Lorca, Pirandello, Neruda, Martinetti, Borges, la Ocampo e Gardel. Ancora oggi è una tappa obbligata per i turisti che si recano in Argentina.
Tortoni fù un “made in Naples”, un genio che ha esportato la creatività partenopea nel mondo,e ad ogni morso che daremo ad un “Biscuit Tortoni” e ad un “tranche napolitaine” ,assaggeremo la sua arte ed il sapore di Napoli!
Articolo del 24/10/14 h14:47
di Tony Vicari
© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA
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